Autumn and mushrooms: what can we bring to the table?

Autumn: the golden season for mushrooms

Autumn represents the peak period for mushroom fruiting. The climatic conditions of this season, characterized by high humidity, temperature fluctuations, and mild temperatures, create the perfect environment for mycelial development and the appearance of fruiting bodies. In this chapter, we will analyze the factors that make autumn so special for mycophiles and how to best take advantage of this bountiful season.

Why autumn is the ideal season for mushrooms

Mushrooms are organisms particularly sensitive to environmental conditions, and autumn offers a unique combination of factors that favor their growth. The humidity from autumn rains is essential for hydrating the mycelium and inducing fruiting. Simultaneously, the still mild temperatures during the day and cooler at night create those thermal fluctuations that many mushrooms prefer for development. Furthermore, the decomposition of organic matter like leaves and dead wood, accelerated by rain, provides an ideal nutrient substrate for fungal growth.

Statistics on mushroom harvesting in autumn

According to data collected by the Italian Mycological Association, over 70% of the annual harvest of wild mushrooms in Italy occurs in the autumn months. September and October are confirmed as the most productive months, with peaks varying depending on the region and specific weather conditions. The following table illustrates the monthly percentage distribution of mushroom harvesting in Italy:

Ideal weather conditions for fungal growth

Mushroom growth is closely linked to specific weather conditions. Rain is the most important triggering factor: ideally, moderate but persistent rainfall (20-40 mm over 24-48 hours), followed by a few days of dry and sunny weather with temperatures between 10 and 20°C, is sought. Relative humidity should remain above 70% to favor the development of fruiting bodies. Autumn night dew also significantly contributes to substrate moisture, especially when rain is scarce.

The most sought-after autumn mushrooms: guide to edible species

Autumn gifts us with an extraordinary variety of edible mushrooms, each with unique organoleptic characteristics. In this chapter, we will explore in detail the most appreciated species, with information on their identification, preferred habitat, and peak fruiting periods. We will learn to recognize mushrooms that are safe to bring to the table and to distinguish them from any similar toxic species.

The king of autumn: the Porcino (Boletus edulis and relatives)

The Porcino is undoubtedly the most famous and sought-after mushroom in the autumn woods. The term "porcino" groups several species of the Boletus genus, including Boletus edulis, Boletus aereus, Boletus pinophilus, and Boletus reticulatus. These mushrooms are characterized by a hemispherical cap that flattens with maturity, of a color varying from light brown to dark brown almost black. The tubes and pores are white and then yellow-green, and must absolutely not show red or bluish tones when pressed. The stem is massive, often bulbous, with a more or less evident network.

Porcini grow in symbiosis with various broadleaf trees and conifers, depending on the species. Boletus edulis prefers firs and beeches, while Boletus aereus favors oaks and chestnuts. Harvesting occurs from late summer until late autumn, with peaks in September-October. For further detailed information on identifying porcini, it is advisable to consult the portal of the Italian Naturalistic Mycological Association

The precious Ovuli: Amanita caesarea

The Caesar's Amanita (Amanita caesarea) is considered one of the most prized mushrooms. It is recognized by the characteristic bright orange cap, yellow gills and stem, and the white, membranous volva. Be careful not to confuse it with the deadly Amanita muscaria (Fly Agaric), which has a red cap with white warts and white gills. The Caesar's Amanita grows mainly in broadleaf woods (oaks, chestnuts) in summer-autumn, preferring mild climates and siliceous soils.

The fragrant Finferli or Gallinacci: Cantharellus cibarius

Chanterelles, also known as Girolle or Yellowfoot, are mushrooms highly appreciated for their fruity aroma and firm texture. They are recognized by their trumpet shape and egg-yellow color. Unlike gilled mushrooms, chanterelles have thick, decurrent false gills on the stem. They grow in large groups in coniferous and broadleaf forests, often forming the characteristic "fairy rings." Harvesting takes place from late summer until late autumn.

The very tasty Chiodini: Armillaria mellea

Honey Fungus (Armillaria mellea) are among the most collected mushrooms in autumn for their abundance and characteristic flavor. They present a convex then flattened cap of honey-yellow color with small dark scales, whitish then reddish-spotted gills, and a fibrous stem with a distinct white ring. They grow in clusters on stumps and logs of various broadleaf trees. Attention: Honey Fungus must always be well cooked before consumption to eliminate thermolabile toxic substances. 

Responsible harvesting: rules, permits, and best practices

The harvesting of mushrooms is regulated by regional laws that govern the quantities, methods, and permitted periods. In this chapter, we will address the regulatory aspects and best practices for sustainable harvesting, respecting the environment and fungal biodiversity. Being responsible harvesters is not only a legal obligation but a duty towards the nature that hosts us.

Regional regulations for mushroom harvesting

In Italy, each region has its own laws concerning the harvesting of spontaneous epigeous mushrooms. Generally, a permit (card) is required, which can be daily, seasonal, or annual, with varying costs. The maximum quantities collectible per person per day vary between 2 and 3 kg in most regions, with exceptions for some species or professional harvesters. It is essential to inquire about the specific regulations of the region where you intend to collect, as penalties for offenders can be very severe.

Best practices for sustainable harvesting

To preserve the mycological heritage and ensure the perpetuation of species, it is important to follow some simple but crucial rules:

• Collect only specimens in good maturity, avoiding those too young or old
• Use a wicker basket that allows for the dispersal of spores during transport
• Do not use rakes or hooks that would damage the underground mycelium
• Clean the mushroom roughly on the spot to remove soil and impurities
• Do not collect unknown or doubtful specimens, nor trample them

Essential equipment for harvesting

The mushroom forager's equipment must be practical and functional. In addition to the aforementioned wicker basket, a knife with a robust blade and brush for rough cleaning is indispensable. Clothing suitable for the season and woodland terrain, preferably layered and with not too bright colors to avoid scaring wildlife, is essential. A stick to gently move vegetation without excessive bending completes the equipment. To learn more about responsible harvesting techniques, the ISPRA portal offers detailed guidelines.

Preservation and processing of autumn mushrooms

Autumn mushrooms, due to their perishable nature, require appropriate preservation techniques to be enjoyed even in the months following the harvest. In this chapter, we will explore traditional and modern methods for preserving aromas and nutritional properties, from drying to preservation in oil, from freezing to freeze-drying.

Drying: the most traditional method

Drying is probably the oldest and most widespread preservation technique for mushrooms. It is particularly suitable for porcini, chanterelles, and other fleshy species. The process consists of eliminating the water contained in the mushrooms, bringing it from 90% to 10-12%, thus preventing the development of microorganisms. Mushrooms should be cleaned with a damp cloth (never washed under water), cut into slices 5-10 mm thick, and placed on nets in well-ventilated areas or with specific dryers at temperatures not exceeding 40-45°C. Once dried, mushrooms should be stored in airtight glass jars, away from light.

Preservation in oil and vinegar

Preservation in oil is ideal for firm and compact mushrooms like young porcini, Parasols, and Honey Fungus. The process involves a preliminary blanching in water and vinegar (2/3 water and 1/3 vinegar) for 10-15 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in ice water. After drying them well, the mushrooms are placed in sterilized jars and completely covered with extra virgin olive oil. It is essential to ensure that the mushrooms are completely immersed in oil to avoid mold formation. To ensure food safety, it is recommended to pasteurize the jars at 80°C for 20-30 minutes.

Freezing and other modern techniques

Freezing is a practical and quick method to preserve mushrooms while keeping their organoleptic characteristics intact. Mushrooms should first be cleaned thoroughly, possibly blanched for 2-3 minutes (especially gilled ones to preserve their color), rapidly cooled and dried. They should then be spread on trays and quickly frozen before being transferred to food bags. For porcini, a traditional method involves preservation in layers with coarse salt in glass jars, to be rinsed abundantly before use. For innovative recipes with mushrooms you can visit our recipe section

Autumn recipes: traditional mushroom dishes

Autumn mushrooms lend themselves to infinite culinary preparations, from simple side dishes to elaborate risottos, from pasta sauces to sophisticated main courses. In this chapter, we will explore some traditional recipes from different Italian regions, with advice for pairings and variations. We will discover how to best enhance the flavor of different mushrooms while respecting their characteristics.

Porcini risotto: the autumn classic

Porcini risotto is perhaps the most famous dish of Italian mycogastronomy. To prepare it best, you need 320g of Carnaroli or Vialone Nano rice, 300g of fresh porcini, 1 shallot, hot vegetable broth, dry white wine, Parmigiano Reggiano, parsley, and butter. After cleaning and slicing the porcini (saving a few shavings for garnish), sauté the chopped shallot in butter, add the mushrooms and let them flavor. After 10 minutes, add the rice and toast it for a few minutes before deglazing with wine. Add the broth little by little, stirring gently. At the end of cooking, stir in butter and parmesan, and garnish with chopped parsley and raw porcini shavings.

Honey fungus stew: grandma's recipe

Honey Fungus, due to their fibrous texture, require prolonged cooking that makes them perfect for stewed preparations. After pre-cooking for 15 minutes in acidulated water (essential to eliminate thermolabile toxins), drain and sauté them in a pan with garlic, oil, and chili pepper. Add peeled tomatoes or passata and cook over low heat for at least 40 minutes, until the mushrooms are tender. Serve with chopped parsley and grilled polenta.

Chanterelle omelette: simplicity and taste

The chanterelle omelette is a simple dish that enhances the fruity aroma of these mushrooms. After cleaning and sautéing the chanterelles in a pan with garlic and parsley, incorporate them into beaten eggs with parmesan and pepper. Cook in a non-stick pan with a drizzle of oil, turning gently halfway through cooking. Serve lukewarm or at room temperature, accompanied by a green salad.

Warnings and precautions: toxic mushrooms and syndromes

Harvesting and consuming wild mushrooms involve non-negligible risks. In this chapter, we will address the main toxic syndromes, the most dangerous poisonous mushrooms, and the precautions to take to avoid poisoning. Knowledge is the best protection when it comes to mushrooms, and respecting a few but crucial rules can prevent tragedies.

The most common deadly mushrooms in autumn

Among the deadly mushrooms that fruit in autumn, the Amanita phalloides (responsible for 90% of deaths from fungal poisoning), Galerina marginata, and Cortinarius orellanus stand out. Amanita phalloides is particularly insidious due to its resemblance to some edible species and the long latency period between ingestion and the appearance of symptoms (6-24 hours). It is recognized by its olive-green cap, white gills, and the well-evident ring and volva. Also beware of the small deadly Lepiota, which can be mistaken for meadow mushrooms.

Toxic syndromes and latency times

Toxic syndromes from mushrooms are classified based on the time of symptom onset:

• Long latency syndromes (over 6 hours): these are the most dangerous and include the phalloid syndrome (liver damage), orellanus syndrome (kidney damage), and paraphalloid syndrome (hepato-renal damage)
• Short latency syndromes (from 30 minutes to 6 hours): generally less dangerous, they include gastrointestinal, pantherina, muscarinic, and psilocybin syndromes

It is essential to remember that delayed symptoms are always a sign of severe poisoning that requires immediate medical intervention.

Golden rules for safe consumption

To avoid poisoning, it is essential to follow these fundamental rules:

• Consume only mushrooms checked by a mycologist at the Mycological Inspectorates of the Local Health Authorities (ASL)
• Do not consume raw mushrooms, many are toxic when raw but edible when cooked
• Keep a specimen of each consumed species in the fridge for possible analysis
• In case of symptoms, go immediately to the emergency room bringing the remains of the meal
• Do not trust "DIY tests" like garlic turning black or a silver spoon

Autumn and mushrooms: respect for nature and tradition

Harvesting and consuming autumn mushrooms represent an activity rich in satisfaction, combining the pleasure of walking in the woods with the joy of discovery and the pleasure of good food. Approaching this practice with respect, knowledge, and awareness is essential to preserve a natural and cultural heritage that has been passed down to us and that we have a duty to pass on to future generations. Happy foraging and bon appétit!