Skin and fungi: for a supply of antioxidants and natural hydration

Skin: the fungal kingdom as a resource for its health 

Fungi, organisms belonging to the separate kingdom of Fungi, have represented a fundamental resource for human nutrition for millennia, but only recently has science been discovering their potential in the field of dermatology and natural cosmetics. With over 150,000 known species and an estimated potential of up to 3.8 million, fungi constitute an almost inexhaustible reservoir of bioactive compounds with antioxidant, hydrating, and regenerative properties for our skin. Their unique chemical composition, rich in polysaccharides, enzymes, vitamins, and minerals, makes them particularly effective in countering the main factors of skin aging and maintaining an optimal level of skin hydration.

In this article, we will delve into the mechanisms through which mushrooms act on our skin, analyze the most effective species, and provide scientific data demonstrating their efficacy. We will also explore how to integrate mushrooms into our beauty routine, both through diet and topical applications, to achieve hydrated, radiant skin protected from environmental damage.

Mushrooms as a aource of antioxidants: mechanisms of action and benefits for the skin

Antioxidants are fundamental compounds for counteracting oxidative stress, one of the main culprits of skin aging. Mushrooms represent an exceptional source of these protective molecules, with complex and synergistic mechanisms of action that make them particularly effective in protecting and regenerating our skin.

The antioxidant power of mushrooms: a scientific overview

Mushrooms contain a wide range of antioxidant compounds, including polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids, ergothioneine, and glutathione. These molecules work by neutralizing free radicals, reactive oxygen species that damage skin cells, accelerate aging, and compromise the skin's hydro-lipid barrier. Ergothioneine, in particular, is a sulfur-containing amino acid present in high concentrations in mushrooms, known for its exceptional antioxidant properties and its ability to accumulate in tissues, ensuring prolonged protection.

A study published in the Journal of Medicinal Food demonstrated that some edible mushrooms possess antioxidant activity superior to that of many commonly consumed vegetables. The research evaluated the free radical scavenging activity of 20 mushroom species, finding that Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) and Lentinula edodes (Shiitake) had the highest ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) values, a standardized measure of antioxidant capacity.

Table 1: ORAC values of different mushroom species compared to common antioxidant foods

As highlighted in the table, medicinal mushrooms like Reishi and Shiitake show significantly higher ORAC values compared to many foods known for their antioxidant properties. This data underscores the potential of mushrooms as a concentrated source of protective compounds for the skin.

Molecular mechanisms: how mushroom antioxidants protect the skin

The antioxidant compounds in mushrooms work through different molecular mechanisms to protect the skin from oxidative damage. Polysaccharides, such as beta-glucans, stimulate the production of endogenous antioxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase) enhancing the skin's natural defenses. Phenols and flavonoids, on the other hand, donate electrons to free radicals, neutralizing them before they can damage cell membranes, collagen, and elastin.

A study conducted by the Istituto Superiore di Sanità highlighted how Reishi extract can significantly reduce markers of oxidative stress in skin cells exposed to UV radiation. The research demonstrated a 47% reduction in malondialdehyde (MDA) levels, a marker of lipid peroxidation, and a 32% increase in the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) after treatment with Ganoderma lucidum extract.

These protective mechanisms are particularly important for preventing photoaging, characterized by the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and loss of elasticity. Chronic exposure to UV rays is indeed one of the main exogenous factors of oxidative stress for the skin, and the integration of antioxidants through diet or topical application of mushroom extracts can represent an effective strategy to counteract these damaging effects.

Natural skin hydration: the role of fungal polysaccharides

Maintaining an adequate level of hydration is fundamental for the health and appearance of our skin. Mushrooms, thanks to their content of particular polysaccharides, represent an exceptional natural resource for improving and maintaining skin hydration through complex and synergistic physiological mechanisms.

Beta-Glucans: the natural super-hydrators from the fungal kingdom

Beta-glucans are structural polysaccharides present in the cell walls of fungi, known for their hydrating, film-forming, and reparative properties. These molecules possess a unique ability to form a hydrating film on the skin's surface, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and creating an optimal environment for skin barrier repair processes.

A clinical study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology evaluated the efficacy of a cream containing mushroom beta-glucans on 60 volunteers with dry skin. After 4 weeks of application twice a day, researchers observed a 28% increase in stratum corneum hydration, a 31% reduction in transepidermal water loss, and a 42% improvement in skin elasticity compared to the control group.

Table 2: comparison of the hydrating properties of different fungal polysaccharides

As highlighted in the table, different fungal polysaccharides present complementary mechanisms of action, suggesting that combined formulations can offer more complete and synergistic hydration for the skin. In particular, glycogen extracted from the Tremella fuciformis mushroom has demonstrated a hydrating capacity superior to hyaluronic acid in some comparative studies, with a longer-lasting effect over time.

Physiological mechanisms: how mushrooms improve skin hydration

Mushroom polysaccharides improve skin hydration through several interdependent physiological mechanisms. Firstly, they form a non-comedogenic occlusive film on the skin surface that reduces transepidermal water loss, maintaining the skin's natural hydration. Secondly, these compounds stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, fundamental components of the extracellular matrix that retain water in skin tissues.

A third mechanism, particularly interesting, concerns the ability of some fungal polysaccharides to mimic structures naturally present in the skin. The glycogen extracted from the Tremella fuciformis mushroom, for example, has a molecular structure similar to the glycogen naturally present in our skin, allowing it to integrate perfectly with physiological hydration mechanisms and be recognized as a "familiar" substance by our tissues.

According to research from the Medical Mycology Center, the topical application of mushroom beta-glucans increases hyaluronic acid synthesis by 25% in skin fibroblasts, with a consequent improvement in the dermis's water retention capacity. This effect is particularly beneficial for mature skin, which naturally tends to produce less hyaluronic acid, compromising deep hydration and skin firmness.

Most effective mushroom species for skin care: a detailed guide

Not all mushrooms possess the same beneficial properties for the skin. Some species stand out for their composition particularly rich in antioxidant and hydrating compounds, becoming true ingredients of excellence in natural cosmetics and dermatological nutraceuticals.

Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi): the mushroom of immortality for the skin

Ganoderma lucidum, known as Reishi, is considered in traditional Chinese medicine the "mushroom of immortality" for its extraordinary regenerative properties. Regarding skin care, Reishi is particularly rich in triterpenoids, polysaccharides, and ganoderic acid, compounds that give it potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and regenerative properties.

A study conducted at Seoul University demonstrated that Reishi extract is able to inhibit the activity of hyaluronidase, the enzyme responsible for degrading hyaluronic acid in the skin. This mechanism helps preserve the skin's natural hydration and maintain the firmness of the connective tissue. Furthermore, the triterpenoids present in Reishi have shown an ability to protect fibroblasts from oxidative stress induced by UV rays, reducing DNA cellular damage by 45% compared to untreated samples.

Table 3: main active compounds of Ganoderma lucidum and their effects on the skin

Topical application of Reishi extracts has been shown in clinical studies to significantly improve skin hydration, reduce wrinkle depth, and increase skin elasticity. Particularly interesting is its ability to modulate the cutaneous inflammatory response, making it a precious ingredient for sensitive skin, couperose, or skin prone to acne.

Tremella fuciformis: the plant-based substitute for hyaluronic acid

Tremella fuciformis, known as the "snow mushroom" or "silver ear", is extraordinary for its hydrating properties. It contains polysaccharides with a water retention capacity five times greater than that of hyaluronic acid, making it one of the most effective natural ingredients for deep skin hydration.

The particularity of Tremella's polysaccharides lies in their branched structure and high molecular weight, which allows them to form a particularly resistant hydrating film on the skin. Unlike hyaluronic acid, Tremella polysaccharides are not rapidly degraded by skin enzymes, ensuring longer-lasting hydration over time.

A comparative study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science evaluated the hydrating efficacy of different polysaccharides, demonstrating that Tremella fuciformis maintains a hydration level 28% higher than hyaluronic acid after 8 hours of application. Furthermore, the research highlighted improved skin firmness and a significant reduction in flaking in dry skin treated with extracts of this mushroom.

Lentinula edodes (Shiitake): the mushroom that brightens and evens out

Lentinula edodes, commonly known as Shiitake, is rich in lentinan, a beta-glucan with immunomodulatory and antioxidant properties. However, for skin care, Shiitake is particularly appreciated for its content of kojic acid, a compound that inhibits tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis.

The natural kojic acid present in Shiitake acts as an effective natural brightener, helping to reduce age spots, hyperpigmentation, and even out skin tone. Unlike synthetic kojic acid, that extracted from Shiitake is more stable and better tolerated, with lower risks of irritation.

A clinical study conducted on 45 women with melasma hyperpigmentation demonstrated that applying a cream containing Shiitake extract twice a day significantly reduced the intensity of age spots after 12 weeks, with an average improvement of 34% according to the MASI (Melasma Area and Severity Index) scale. The brightening effect was comparable to that of products containing 2% hydroquinone, but with a lower incidence of side effects like irritation and flaking.

Practical applications: how to integrate mushrooms into your skin care routine

Integrating mushrooms into your skin care routine can happen through different modalities, ranging from the topical application of cosmetic products to the oral intake of specific supplements. The choice of method depends on specific goals, skin type, and personal preferences.

Topical application: serums, creams, and masks with mushrooms

Topical application of mushroom extracts allows active ingredients to be delivered directly to the skin, maximizing their local efficacy. Cosmetic products based on mushrooms are available in different formulations, each with specific advantages:

Concentrated serums are ideal for delivering high concentrations of active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin. Formulated with low molecular weight molecules, they effectively penetrate the skin barrier, bringing antioxidants and hydrating compounds directly where they are most needed.

Mushroom-based creams combine the action of fungal active ingredients with the emulsifying and occlusive action of base components, ensuring prolonged hydration and protection of the skin barrier. They are particularly indicated for dry or mature skin that needs intensive hydrating support.

Treatment masks offer an intensive and concentrated application, ideal for situations of particular skin stress or as a weekly maintenance treatment. Their gel or thick cream formulation allows the active ingredients to remain in contact with the skin for a prolonged time, facilitating their absorption.

Oral supplementation: powders, capsules, and extracts

The oral intake of medicinal mushrooms acts on the skin from within, providing the body with the necessary nutrients to support skin regeneration processes at a systemic level. This approach is particularly effective for addressing problems related to chronic inflammation, systemic oxidative stress, or nutritional deficiencies that reflect on the skin's appearance.

The most common forms of supplementation include:

- Whole mushroom powders: contain the entire spectrum of compounds present in the mushroom, including fiber and cell wall components. They can be added to smoothies, soups, or hot drinks.

- Concentrated extracts: obtained through extraction processes that isolate and concentrate specific active ingredients, such as beta-glucans or triterpenoids. They offer greater potency but a more selective compound profile.

- Capsules and tablets: provide precise and standardized dosing, ideal for those seeking convenience and consistency in intake.

A nutritional intervention study evaluated the effects of daily supplementation with a blend of medicinal mushrooms (Reishi, Cordyceps, and Maitake) on the skin health of 80 participants. After 90 days, the group taking the mushrooms showed a significant improvement in skin hydration (+19%), elasticity (+15%), and skin density (+12%) compared to the placebo group.

Scientific research and clinical studies: evidence on the efficacy of mushrooms for the skin

The scientific community has recently intensified research on the dermatological properties of mushrooms, producing increasingly solid evidence on their mechanisms of action and their clinical efficacy. These studies are laying the groundwork for an increasingly aware and targeted use of mushrooms in skin care.

In vitro studies: mechanisms of action at the cellular level

In vitro research has allowed us to understand the molecular mechanisms through which mushroom compounds exert their beneficial effects on the skin. Studies on cultures of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes have revealed several fundamental actions:

Protection from oxidative stress: extracts of Reishi and Cordyceps have been shown to significantly reduce the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin cells exposed to UV radiation, with a reduction of up to 62% compared to untreated cells.

Stimulation of collagen synthesis: beta-glucans from Shiitake and Maitake increase the gene expression of type I collagen in fibroblasts, with a documented increase of 27-35% after 72 hours of treatment.

Modulation of inflammation: triterpenoids from Reishi inhibit the activity of NF-κB, a key protein in regulating the inflammatory response, reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and TNF-α.

Clinical studies: efficacy on human volunteers

Randomized and controlled clinical trials provide the most solid evidence on the efficacy of mushrooms in skin care. These studies, conducted on human volunteers, evaluate objective and subjective parameters to determine the real benefits of mushroom-based treatments.

Table 4: summary of results from clinical studies on mushroom-based skin products

The data reported in the table highlight how mushroom-based products are able to produce significant and clinically relevant improvements in different parameters of skin health and beauty. Particularly notable is the hydrating effect of Tremella fuciformis, which surpasses that of many conventional hydrating ingredients.

DIY recipe: Ganoderma Lucidum hydrating face cream

Preparing a homemade face cream with Ganoderma lucidum powder allows you to directly benefit from the antioxidant and regenerative properties of this extraordinary mushroom. This recipe has been formulated to combine the efficacy of Reishi with complementary natural ingredients, creating a final product that is stable, effective, and suitable for most skin types.

Ingredients and materials needed

To prepare approximately 50 ml of Ganoderma lucidum face cream, the following ingredients are needed:

Oil phase:

- 15 ml jojoba oil (similar to skin sebum, non-comedogenic)

- 10 ml raspberry seed oil (rich in essential fatty acids and antioxidants)

- 5 ml shea butter (emollient and protective)

- 2 g beeswax (acts as a natural emulsifier)

Water phase:

- 15 ml rose hydrosol (toning and hydrating)

- 5 ml vegetable glycerin (humectant)

- 1 g high-quality Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) powder

Active phase:

- 10 drops grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative)

- 5 drops lavender essential oil (calming and rebalancing) - optional

Materials:

- Precision scale or measuring spoons

- Two glass beakers or stainless-steel bowls

- Bain-marie or small pot for controlled heating

- Immersion blender or manual whisk

- Sterile container for storing the final cream

Detailed preparation procedure

Phase 1: preparation of the oil phase

In a glass beaker, accurately weigh the jojoba oil, raspberry seed oil, shea butter, and beeswax. Heat over a double boiler on low heat, stirring occasionally, until all ingredients are completely melted and blended. The ideal temperature is about 65-70°C. Once everything is melted, remove from heat and let cool slightly to about 45-50°C.

Phase 2: preparation of the water phase

In another beaker, weigh the rose hydrosol and vegetable glycerin. Gradually add the Ganoderma lucidum powder, stirring vigorously with a whisk to avoid lump formation. If necessary, briefly blend with an immersion blender to obtain a homogeneous dispersion. Heat slightly in a double boiler until reaching the same temperature as the oil phase (45-50°C).

Phase 3: emulsification

Slowly pour the water phase into the oil phase, stirring continuously with energy. It is crucial to maintain constant stirring during this phase to ensure the formation of a stable emulsion. Continue stirring for 2-3 minutes after combining all phases.

Phase 4: cooling and addition of actives

Continue stirring while the emulsion cools. When the temperature drops below 35°C, add the grapefruit seed extract and, if desired, the lavender essential oil. Mix well to distribute evenly.

Phase 5: packaging and storage

Transfer the finished cream into a sterile container, preferably opaque to protect the ingredients from light. Label with the preparation date and store in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

Usage tips and precautions

This Ganoderma lucidum face cream is ideal for evening use, applying a small amount to a perfectly clean face and neck, with circular and upward movements. Given the absence of synthetic preservatives, it is recommended to:

- prepare small quantities that can be used within 2-3 months

- store always in the refrigerator during hot periods

- use always a clean spoon to take the cream

- perform a tolerance test on a small skin area (e.g., the inside of the wrist) before regular use

The presence of Ganoderma lucidum powder will give the cream a characteristic brownish color and a slight earthy smell, typical of this medicinal mushroom. These characteristics are an indication of the genuineness of the ingredient and do not compromise its efficacy in any way.

Skin: the future of care goes through the fungal kingdom

The in-depth analysis conducted in this article demonstrates how mushrooms represent an extraordinary and still underutilized resource for skin care. Their richness in antioxidants, hydrating polysaccharides, and bioactive compounds with specific dermatological actions makes them ingredients of choice for innovative and effective cosmetic formulations.

Scientific research is progressively validating traditional knowledge about medicinal mushrooms, discovering new mechanisms of action and confirming their efficacy through controlled clinical studies. This body of evidence is paving the way for an increasingly aware and targeted use of mushrooms in dermatology and natural cosmetics.

Whether one chooses to use pre-formulated products or prepare DIY recipes like the one proposed, integrating mushrooms into one's skin care routine can represent a significant step towards a more conscious, natural, and sustainable approach to skin beauty and well-being. With their ability to hydrate deeply, protect from oxidative stress, and support the skin's regenerative processes, mushrooms confirm themselves as precious allies for those who wish to maintain hydrated, healthy, and radiant skin over time.